CAD/CAM SYSTEM FOR APPAREL MASS CUSTOMIZATION BY LECTRA

The automation technologies for apparel manufacturing, compartmentalized by the engineering science as CAD/CAM systems, give fashion experts the opportunity to construct customized garments on a large scale, freeing them from the routine work and providing more time for the creative designer's work. At the same time these technologies ensure precise and fast production of the selected garment model, which fits customer's individual measurements, taken by a body scanner in the shop. The fashion CAD/CAM system by Lectra is highly flexible and practical, establishing immediate connection between customers in the boutique and the apparel production site via the Internet. Let's follow the steps which the whole process - from choosing the model and taking customer's measurements to manufacturing and online support – is going through.

In the fashion shop

The fashion shop is not a traditional one because it is equipped with specific software web application called FitnetStore for collecting customer's preferences, selected model and style of the clothing item, its options, as well as customer's measurements. There is another device in the boutique which is not typical for a fashion shop- the Body Scanner, a device containing CCD cameras and a laser, running a specific software under Windows NT or Windows XP, the Vitus smart 3D BodyScanner. It scans the surface of customer's body and prepares the so called Digital Twin, which is kept in the computer by means of FitnetStore for further processing. The customer's specific data gathered by FitnetStore are sent to the server called FitNet server via Internet.

In the production site

The construction and production of the garment is accomplished in the production site based on the customer's data kept in FitNet server. Customer's measurements are taken by means of ScanWorX the Digital Tape Measure. It is an application software, included in the standard 3D BodyScanner bundle, for extracting body measurements, needed for garment construction, from the Digital Twin. There are various tools to this program enhancing its performance regarding preparing and calculating customer's measurements (ScanWorx AutoMeasure, ScanWorx InteractiveMeasure, ScanWorx Professional, ScanWorx SizeFit) and a Graphic User Interface for use by non-experts in the boutique together with FitnetStore.

On receiving the order, the FitnetServer automatically activates its programs Modaris and Diamino for processing the input data and preparing the data needed for construction of the garment. The Modaris pack MODEPRO is an application software used for adapting the model with the specific measurements and body structure of the customer. Its option called Modaris Expert adjusts automatically linings, heat sealing and other supplemental construction pieces from the main fabric. The result is the customized model pattern. Then DIAMINO Expert makes the marker for this pattern automatically either on plain or on patterned fabric. The marker is cut by the TopSpin automated cutting system. The entire process including pattern design, marker making and cutting is completed automatically very quickly.

The Fitnet server and its software in the manufacturing site, the application software and the body scanner used in the boutique, and the automated cutting machine in the production site, form a complete distributed CAD/CAM system using Internet for communication. The Fitnet server keeps the fashion collection which is to be customized at the manufacturing site but it can be also accessed in the shops through Internet. This CAD/CAM system is completed by Software Evolution, a subscription service for obtaining the latest versions of Lectra software, Remote Expertise which ensures real-time IT support for software problems  via  Internet and by phone, and training. So the difficult process of garment customization which once consumed fashion experts' time and endeavors is made easy for mass production through implementation of modern automation and information technologies.

YOUR COMPUTER- OPTIMISED AND SAFE FROM MALWARE

“Advice is judged by results, not by intentions.”

Cicero

“Replace the fear by knowledge”

Cesar Millan

Computers and the Internet are already an inseparable part of our professional and private life. Moreover, our prosperity depends on their proper operation to a great extent. Therefore the fear of everything threatening the reliable work of computers is understandable. To replace the fear by knowledge is the intention of this brief article. It discusses, in a concise form and in general, what puts computers at risk, and what measures should be taken for their protection. The question of the optimisation of computers as a procedure towards their optimal performance is considered, too.

Today the threats arise from both the connectivity of computers to networks and people's careless behaviour and ignorance regarding the techniques used for attacks with malware, short for malicious software. According to our reliable assistant- the Wikipedia “Malware includes computer viruses, worms, trojan horses, spyware, adware, most rootkits, and other malicious programs”.¹ While all these forms of malware differ in the type of damage they cause (from slowing computer down to theft of bank account data), they have something in common- the routes of infection. All of these malicious programs get on a computer through deception of the user or through software vulnerabilities. A computer virus is usually embedded inside a file of almost all possible formats and is sent as an attachment to your email under the disguise of useful information or security tool. Being unwary and curious, you download the file with the virus payload, and the virus attaches itself to a file (not necessarily an “exe” file in Windows machines; it can be a “doc”, “xls” or other file) or boot sectors on your computer and begins its malicious work. In addition to installing antivirus programs, you should adopt some security practices. The first one is: be sure to open only attachments you trust, and be wary of data received from untrusted sources. In fact, viruses are third-party programs allowed to be run on your computer thanks to the privileges/permissions you have as an user. Because of the way permissions work in Linux systems, it is more difficult for a virus to wreak havoc in such computers. Hence, it would be advantageous for keeping your computer safe from viruses to use Linux, some of its distributions being as user-friendly as the operating systems of Microsoft are, for example Ubuntu Linux. Like viruses spyware exploits user's carelessness and/or software vulnerabilities, mostly Internet Explorer and Windows security holes. Spyware, initially meant for espionage purposes, has taken on its present sense as malicious software for stealing personal information including user logins and bank or credit account information, changing computer settings, installing additional software or redirecting Web browsers , misleading users to advertisement websites. Spyware is installed on your computer surreptitiously usually by masquerading as security software. Spyware can be bundled with another useful and desirable software you would gladly download. It is executed automatically when the operating system boots without your knowledge. Spyware is hidden and accomplishes its malicious work without you even suspecting its harmful presence and behaviour. Besides installing anti-spyware programs (usually combined with antivirus software to form anti-malware software), there are some security approaches you should assume to keep your computer safe from spyware. Use a web browser other than Internet Explorer, such as Opera, Google Chrome, or Mozilla Firefox. Download programs only from reputable sources. Be aware of the common spyware programs and threatening websites, such as CoolWebSearch or Movieland and Coolwebsearch.com or Popcorn.net, respectively . Be informed on the 'news' in the computer security field by visiting Wikipedia and websites like StopBadware and Shadowserver Foundation , which give actual information on security threats and attacker's techniques, eg tricking users by social engineering. Inspect your computer periodically by disconnecting it from the internet and by means of credible anti-spyware/antivirus software. Be sure to use reliable anti-malware software, which should be updated every day for new 'signatures', components known as malicious code, and new security techniques. There are reliable anti-malware programs like Microsoft Security Essentials or Malwarebytes Anti-Malware you can use to keep your computer safe. Have your computer be scanned periodically online if you run anti-malware applications. This online scanning is necessary because the first thing that malicious software does is to eliminate any existing anti-malware software. Therefore the only way to know of an attack is by using an online scanning resource that is not installed on the infected computer. You can use the free online services of Panda Software's AcriveScan or Kaspersky's Free Virus Scan. Both require that the scan is preformed using Internet Explorer. So you can take advantage of IE for scanning purposes. Following these advices should lead to the intended results- keeping your computer safe. Safety in the sense of protection from malicious software is one of the aspect of this article. The other aspect is keeping computers optimised.

The optimisation or achieving optimum computer performance requires bloatware removal as a first step. Bloatware is the inclusion in a software program of unnecessary features that are not used by end users, for example marketing or e-commerce features. Therefore this type of bloatware software uses more computer resources than necessary, while offering little or no benefit to its users. The result of the extremely large amount of features is summarized by Niklaus Wirth in his statement that “software speed is decreasing more quickly than hardware speed is increasing”². To get rid of the bloatware, you can use Ccleaner. This is reliable software which will clean your computer from the unnecessary “rubbish”. The second step you should take towards the optimum performance of your computer consists in a series of maintenance procedures, such as cleaning up your startup programs, cleaning up services that aren't needed, running a General Maintenance Utility Program, disabling some features you don't need, etc, for which perhaps you have to be assisted by a computer specialist.³ The computer professional may recommend you to implement some more complicated security controls like Firewall for example.⁴

In replacing the fear by the above knowledge, the given advices will be judged by the achieved result which is certainly keeping your computer optimised and safe.

May 29^th, 2012

Marlena Yurukova, M.S.

1Malware, Wikipedia

2 Software Blot (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Software_bloat)

3Notebook Review

4Security Practices, Wikipedia, Spyware

PCB ASSEMBLY EVOLUTION

From THT to SMT and THR

1. Introduction

      Today the progress in electronic manufacturing consists primarily in implementing environmentally friendly technologies. Properties like high quality, reliability, cost-effectiveness, simplicity and high integration density are features marking the evolution of PCB assembly, too. THR or Through-Hole Reflow technology combines all these characteristics. It is the point the evolution of PCB assembly has reached today. It combines in itself tradition and innovation by combining conventional Through-hole components with the soldering method typical for the Surface-mount technology- the reflow soldering. Thus PCB assembly demonstrates a spiral -like development from the THT to SMT and from SMT to THR.

2. From THT to SMT
Through-hole technology of PCB assembly implements the conventional through-hole components the leads of which are inserted through the mounting holes of the printed circuit board and are soldered at the back side of the board. The assembly is carried out manually or with special placement equipment. The components are soldered to the PCB manually or with wave soldering machines. The need of defeating the disadvantages of the Through-hole technology like high manufacturing costs, low density, assembly faults due to the manual processes involved have resulted in development of the technology called SMT.
3. SMT
SMT is today's standard of electronics manufacturing. SMT stands for Surface-Mount Technology that has largely taken the place of Through-hole technology because of the improvements made in both – the component construction and the process of the PCB assembly. The drawbacks of the THT have been overcome: the components have become miniature – as small as (0.01 in x 0.005 in) in SMD of 01005 - size. The high density has been achieved thanks to the small size of the components and the possibility of mounting them on the both sides of the board. The process of PCB assembly has been completely automated in the SMT assembly line. The solder paste is dispensed onto the PCB in the first machine of the line- the Screen/Stencil Printer. The The Pick and Place machine, fed with components in the state in which they are delivered , places or shoots the components onto the PCB. The shooter of the Pick and Place machine is often equipped with machine vision tools for the accurate placing of the smallest parts. The reflow soldering process that takes place in the reflow oven melts only the solder paste deposited onto the PCB contrary to the wave soldering process. In-line AOI machines or alone-standing ones secure the quality of the processes involved by 2D or 3D inspection of assembled PCBs. The advantages of SMT are high quality, low production costs, high density, possibility of one-sided or double-sided PCB assembly . The SMT is also environmentally friendly due to the ROHS compliant components and lead-free solder materials used.
4. From SMT to THR
There are still heavy electronic components like coils, connectors and transformers which have to be joined to the PCB with stable joints. So there are applications with mixed component construction, such with both through-hole and surface-mount components. In that case mixed technology is applied: at the first stage the PCB is assembled using surface-mount technology, then, at the second stage, the through-hole elements are placed and soldered manually in a manual or semi-automated process. This process is expensive and non-reliable. There is a need of uniforming the process by eliminating the manual operation and the wave soldering. The innovative technology that has been developed in meeting this need is known as Through-Hole-Reflow (THR) , Pin-in-Paste, or Pin-in-Hole-Intrusive-Reflow.
4. THR is a technology with through-hole and surface-mount components being soldered together in the reflow soldering process. In the stencil printer, the solder paste is dispensed onto the pads and into the holes for the through-hole components. Then the THR Placing machine inserts the pins of the through-hole components into the holes filled with paste prior to placing the surface-mount elements or vice versa depending on the PCB design . The solder joints of the heavy components are stable. Wave soldering is eliminated, and only one soldering process is applied . The process is completely SMT compatible and thus- environmentally friendly.
5. Conclustion
For more than 50 years, the PCB assembly has been the core process in electronics manufacturing. It has been constantly improved for achieving high quality, cost-effectiveness, high integration density and environmental friendliness. The innovative THR of today has focused in itself all these advantages in accumulating all improvements achieved in PCB design, component construction, lead-free soldering materials and automated environmentally friendly processes.

March 22, 2012

Marlena Yurukova, 

Dipl.-Ing. In Radio electronics